Soil is not dirt.

Mottos of a healthy and sustainable landscape:
Plant a 10 cent plant in a 10 dollar hole.
Feed the soil, not the plants.

​Welcome to our Garden Inspiration Blog! We’re glad you’ve found us.  This particular blog is more technical and detailed than our previous blogs. What you’ll learn here is one of the most essential building blocks of creating a healthy, sustainable home garden. Improving your soil organically will save you money too -- money you’d waste on chemicals and replacement plants.

Believe it or not, soil is not dirt.  Dirt is the stuff you wash off your hands or sweep off the sidewalk, undesirable stuff to get rid of. Soil, on the other hand, is an ecosystem, a diverse and intricate mix of minerals, organic matter and a range of flora, fauna, and fungi. (plantnebraska.org)   If you want healthy grass and plants, feed the soil, not the plant.  “Plants need the right combination of nutrients to live, grow and reproduce.  Whether you are planting grass, perennials, shrubs, trees or crops, soil anchors plant roots. Soil serves as a storehouse for nutrients.  When plants suffer from malnutrition, they show symptoms of being unhealthy, because they are a living organism.  Too little or too much of any one nutrient can cause problems.” (University of Arizona Cooperative Extension)   ​

“Soil consists of minerals, air, water, organic matter, and microorganisms. Poor soils lack one or more of these essentials, making it challenging, if not impossible to grow healthy plants. (plantnebraska.org)   The mineral portion is made up of small fragments of rocks that have disintegrated from weathering. Thus, each region's soil is unique due to the native subterranean rocks. The organic portion is composed of plant and animal remains in various stages of decomposition.  This breakdown of matter creates humus, adds stability to soil, buffers the pH, and is effective at storing carbon.  The quantity of water and air in soil depends on the soil's texture and structure." (example: clay, sand, silt) (Penn State)
​

---

Fertilizers, whether organic or chemical, may be a waste of effort and money if the plant cannot absorb them.  Adequate nutrients may be physically present in the soil, but not available. In order for plant roots to obtain nutrients, there must be appropriate hydration and pH. The hydration and ​pH ranges differ for each plant, and most plant’s requirements can be found online or on their plant tag.  ​

Hydration: Soil must be sufficiently moist to allow the roots to take up and transport the nutrients.  Some synthetic fertilizers and chemical pesticides actually restrict water and air movement in the soil. 

pH:  The acidity of the soil must be within a certain range for nutrients to be releasable from the soil particles. 

For example pH for grass is between 6.3-7.0 (slightly acidic to neutral), but the ideal pH for a rhododendron is between 4.5  and 6.0 (acidic).

When planning your garden or landscape you’ll want to include plant combinations that have similar hydration and pH needs.  For example, you don’t want to plant acid loving Rhododendrons (4.5) with more neutral loving plants like lilacs (6.5-7.)  Roses, however, prefer a similar pH to lilacs and would be a better complimentary plant.  ​

You’re probably not a chemist, or a soil science major.  So you might want to know: How do I feed the soil?  What nutrients does my soil need? If your plants and grass are growing well, you don’t need to do anything.  However, if you see plants that are suffering or a lawn that is bare or with a lot of weeds, do a soil test.  It is like your doctor doing a blood test before prescribing a medicine.  Fertilizers are expensive and you may not even need them because your pH or water factors may prevent your grass and plants from absorbing the nutrients. 

Look into your state’s agricultural extension or cooperative office and obtain a soil test.  It’s a simple test done for a small fee.  The state university (Ex: Penn State, Rutgers, Cornell, Vermont, Va Tech) sends you a kit (some zip lock bags, directions, etc.)  You mail in your soil and wait for the results. On the form, you indicate what you want to grow, such as grass, shrubs, vegetables, perennials.  Then the test results will include recommendations for amending your soils for your growing requirements.  Local Master Gardeners and extension offices are also informative and free resources for seeking answers to plant and soil problems.

Note about lawns and soil: pH, water, soil compaction and fertility impact weeds in your lawn.  Adjusting your pH can reduce your weeds without ever using a chemical. You can reduce Clover, Dandelion, and Knotweed by adjusting your soil’s pH.  Check out  How to “read” the weeds in your yard.  Applying high nitrogen fertilizers on lawns can disrupt the nutrient balance, accelerate turf growth, increase the need for mowing, and contribute to thatch buildup.  The application of pesticides harms what is naturally essential for maintaining healthy soil and turf, microorganisms, beneficial insects and earthworms.  Learn more about organic lawn care.

Have you ever seen: White and yellow tiny leaves? Twisted pale new growth? Dark veins with lighter leaf tissue? Pinholes with a yellowing edge? Check out these guides to Symptoms of Plant Nutrient Deficiencies   ​

---

Practices Harmful to your Soil

Landscaping Fabric

​Have you used landscaping fabric and:
Still have weeds?
Plants look weak and are dying?

Landscaping fabric appears to be the obvious cure for preventing weeds.  It does more harm than good to your soil and the plants. Eventually, within a few years,  organic matter accumulates on top, weeds still grow and their roots can penetrate through the landscaping fabric.  Landscaping fabric does not promote healthy plant growth or support healthy soil, which we know, is the anchor of all vigorous plants.  The holes cut in the fabric strangle plants as they mature, as well as stop perennials or groundcovers from spreading because they do not have contact with the soil.  The fabric prevents organic material from decomposing in the soil.  It also inhibits worms and other beneficial insects from doing their role because they cannot travel through the fabric to decompose organic matter or aerate the soil.  During heavy rain events, water runs off quickly.  The slick surface increases the speed of water movement, thus washing away mulch and preventing absorption of the water into the soil.

Soil Compaction

Soil Compaction occurs when soil particles are pressed together.  It is the reduction of soil volume due to external factors, like pedestrian traffic, cars, riding mowers, and heavy machinery. Consequently, compacted soil has a reduced rate of both water infiltration and drainage. ​ To prevent soil compaction, control traffic in your garden with paths.  Protect mature plantings when building homes, additions or buildings.
  ​

Final Words

• Feed the soil, not the plant.
• Stop or reduce chemical use.  Chemicals don’t feed the soil, and they harm the environment.
• Administer a soil test before putting nutrients into your lawn or planting beds.
• Know your plants and where they like to live. Make them feel at home with proper light, soil, water, and pH.
• Evaluate the compaction of your soil. 

If you would like more detailed information, check out this article on soils and plant nutrients for the home gardener from the NC State Extension.