 Why Bother?We borrowed the catchy phrase,” don’t guess...soil test,” from the Penn State extension. Are you a 5-Step lawn applicator? Do you hire a lawn service to spray chemicals on your lawn? You may be wasting your money and harming water systems. Plants are similar to people. Humans seek tests for cholesterol, blood pressure, and a variety of other health metrics which give guidelines on how to best feed and care for our bodies. Similarly with plants, we need to test and ensure that we are giving them the proper food to thrive and withstand stresses like drought, pests and diseases. The healthier a plant, the quicker it can respond to stresses without chemical intervention. Proper soil fertility is the foundation for plant health. Whether you have grass, flowers, trees or a few shrubs, you will save money and our environment by conducting a soil test. It provides you with exactly the nutrients required for your lawn and plants. A $9.00 investment in a Penn state soil test will inform you about organic matter, pH in the soil and ensure that you are applying the proper amounts and type of plant food. Soil tests often reveal that adequate quantities of soil nutrients are present, thus preventing unnecessary or harmful fertilizer applications. Feed the soil, not the plant |
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Soil testing should always be a fundamental step of landscape design. I’ve had clients seek my help when two pricey trees were planted in the same spot, and despite proper care, each died. In another case, a soil test of a lawn revealed that a back yard had an overabundance of fertilizer because of poor drainage; and a front yard on the same property showed very different results because of its slope. Therefore, the treatment to improve each portion of the lawn was altered. In this instance, use of a traditional 5-step program would have resulted in washing chemicals and money down the drain, and into streams and rivers.
In preparation for the spring planting season, order a soil testing kit from your state’s extension office. Take the guessing out of gardening.
For more information on healthy soils visit the USDA website or PASA (Pennsylvania Sustainable Agriculture).
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Can you have a beautiful garden without deer spray and fencing? The answer is, yes! This blog offers a beautiful selection of deer resistant shrubs. Expanding numbers of deer in suburban and urban areas result in herds eating food that they typically wouldn’t touch if our ecosystems were balanced. Though deer are beautiful, the expanding populations are devouring under story plant growth. This upsets the natural ecosystem and reduces food and protection for small mammals and birds. When choosing plants and flowers for your gardens, consider ones that feed birds and provide under story vegetation. Penn State has an informative webinar called Woods in Your Backyard , which guides homeowners in enhancing plant diversity to balance the impact of reduced woodlands from urban sprawl and development. As we continue to support a healthy ecosystem and create outdoor spaces to enjoy, we want to be attentive to destruction from deer browsing.
To help sort through all of the internet resources on deer resistant plans, we’ve put together a list of ‘deer resistant’ shrubs divided by sun requirements and seasonal interest with links (click on picture) to websites for more growing information. This is not an exhaustive list, but a selection of our favorites. For detailed information on all types of deer resistant plants visit Cornell's Extension Website.
To help sort through all of the internet resources on deer resistant plans, we’ve put together a list of ‘deer resistant’ shrubs divided by sun requirements and seasonal interest with links (click on picture) to websites for more growing information. This is not an exhaustive list, but a selection of our favorites. For detailed information on all types of deer resistant plants visit Cornell's Extension Website.
SUN & PART SUN
LIGHT: SUN AND PART SUN
SEASON: SPRING
Daphne, Snowmound Spirea and Dwarf Nikko Deutzia
SEASON: SPRING
Daphne, Snowmound Spirea and Dwarf Nikko Deutzia
Carol Mackie Daphne Daphne x burkwoodii 'Carol Mackie'
Snowmound Spirea Spiraea nipponica 'Snowmound'
Dwarf Nikko Deutzia Deutzia gracilis 'Nikko'
LIGHT: SUN AND PART SUN
SEASON: SPRING & FALL
Winterthur Viburnum, Korean Spice Viburnum
SEASON: SPRING & FALL
Winterthur Viburnum, Korean Spice Viburnum
Winterthur Viburnum
Korean Spice Viburnum
LIGHT: SUN / PART SUN
SEASON: SUMMER
Coralberry (Proudberry by Proven Winners)
SEASON: SUMMER
Coralberry (Proudberry by Proven Winners)
Proud Berry® Coral Berry Symphoricarpos sp.
LIGHT: SUN / PART SUN
SEASON: Winter Interest
Winterberry
SEASON: Winter Interest
Winterberry
Berry Nice® Winterberry Holly Ilex verticillata 'Spriber'
LIGHT: SUN / PART SUN
SEASON: EVERGREEN
Boxwood
SEASON: EVERGREEN
Boxwood
Winter Gem Boxwood Buxus microphylla var. japonica 'Winter Gem'
FULL SUN
LIGHT: FULL SUN
SEASON: SPRING
Lilac, Weigela
SEASON: SPRING
Lilac, Weigela
Korean Lilac Syringa pubescens subsp. patula
Dark Horse Weigela Weigela florida 'Dark Horse' Plant Patent #14,381
LIGHT: FULL SUN
SEASON: SPRING / SUMMER / FALL
Spirea Double Play
SEASON: SPRING / SUMMER / FALL
Spirea Double Play
LIGHT: FULL SUN
SEASON: EVERGREEN
All junipers: Deer do not eat.
SEASON: EVERGREEN
All junipers: Deer do not eat.
Jazzy Jewel™ Andorra Juniper Juniperus horizontalis 'MonGeo' Plant Patent #28,082
FULL SHADE
LIGHT: PART SUN / SHADE
SEASON: SPRING / SUMMER / FALL
Carolina Allspice
SEASON: SPRING / SUMMER / FALL
Carolina Allspice
LIGHT: PART SUN / SHADE / FULL SUN
SEASON: SUMMER / FALL
Clethra, Chokeberry
SEASON: SUMMER / FALL
Clethra, Chokeberry
Clethra
Chokeberry
LIGHT: SHADE
SEASON: Evergreen
Leucothoe (Broadleaf Evergreen), Japanese Plum Yew
SEASON: Evergreen
Leucothoe (Broadleaf Evergreen), Japanese Plum Yew
Leucothoe
Japanese Plum Yew
Gardener's Holiday Gift Giving Guide....Add to your wish list or surprise the gardener in your life.
11/11/2019
We scoured the internet for this curated collection of goodies any gardener will gush over. Start your holiday shopping with these wonderful products and gifts. Bookmark this blog for future birthday gift ideas. The items listed here offer no sponsorship or payment to us. Choose any image for a link to the seller's website.
The gifts are divided into two categories: Under $20 and between $20-$75.
May you enjoy this season with your family and friends. New blogs will begin February 1. Thank you for joining us this year and please email us with topics you would like us to write about next year. May God Bless you in 2020!
The gifts are divided into two categories: Under $20 and between $20-$75.
May you enjoy this season with your family and friends. New blogs will begin February 1. Thank you for joining us this year and please email us with topics you would like us to write about next year. May God Bless you in 2020!
Gifts Under $20
Plant Markers: $1 each
These plant markers are simple to use and last through years of gardening. Each marker is made in the USA with stainless steel. The shape of the 10" tall markers ensures that the plate cannot fall off. In addition to plant identification and dating, these markers can also be used for staking tomatoes, peppers, and cucumbers.
These plant markers are simple to use and last through years of gardening. Each marker is made in the USA with stainless steel. The shape of the 10" tall markers ensures that the plate cannot fall off. In addition to plant identification and dating, these markers can also be used for staking tomatoes, peppers, and cucumbers.
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Leonard Long-Lasting Nursery Marker Pen: $4.00 each
The fine felt marker that outlasts all others. Instant drying, sun and waterproof, non-smearing, and permanent. Best for plastic tags and labels, and marks on anything. Available in black only.
The fine felt marker that outlasts all others. Instant drying, sun and waterproof, non-smearing, and permanent. Best for plastic tags and labels, and marks on anything. Available in black only.
VELCRO Brand 0.5-in Green Strap Fastener: $3.48 each
This VELCRO Brand 45 ft. x 1/2 in. Plant Tie can be used to gently train your plants as they grow. The 1/2 in. green tie is fully adjustable and resists knotting. It comes as a single roll that can be cut to the desired length.
This VELCRO Brand 45 ft. x 1/2 in. Plant Tie can be used to gently train your plants as they grow. The 1/2 in. green tie is fully adjustable and resists knotting. It comes as a single roll that can be cut to the desired length.
- Adjustable tie resists knotting for optimal use.
- Great for staking and training plants.
- Made from durable plastic construction for a strong hold.
- Increase overlap for more secure holding power.
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VELCRO Brand 0.5-in Green Strap Fastener: $3.48 each
This VELCRO Brand 45 ft. x 1/2 in. Plant Tie can be used to gently train your plants as they grow. The 1/2 in. green tie is fully adjustable and resists knotting. It comes as a single roll that can be cut to the desired length.
This VELCRO Brand 45 ft. x 1/2 in. Plant Tie can be used to gently train your plants as they grow. The 1/2 in. green tie is fully adjustable and resists knotting. It comes as a single roll that can be cut to the desired length.
- Adjustable tie resists knotting for optimal use.
- Great for staking and training plants.
- Made from durable plastic construction for a strong hold.
- Increase overlap for more secure holding power.
Pruner Sharpener: $13.95 EACH
Sharpen your favorite pruners and garden shears-scissors! At home, whenever they need it! Easy, safe and convenient to use. Sharp tools make pruning faster and gentler on your joints. Clean cuts are also much healthier for shrubs, since they heal more quickly and resist diseases. This item sharpens accurately and regrinds the correct angle on all types of pruners, loppers and pruning knives. Silicon carbide sharpener. Available at Kinsman Company
Sharpen your favorite pruners and garden shears-scissors! At home, whenever they need it! Easy, safe and convenient to use. Sharp tools make pruning faster and gentler on your joints. Clean cuts are also much healthier for shrubs, since they heal more quickly and resist diseases. This item sharpens accurately and regrinds the correct angle on all types of pruners, loppers and pruning knives. Silicon carbide sharpener. Available at Kinsman Company
Garden Genie Gloves with Claws: 1 pair $6.60
Waterproof and breathable garden gloves for digging and planting. Innovative solution for digging loose soil and protects hands from broken fingernails, bruised fingertips, dirt, sweat and injuries while gardening. Variety of colors and men's and women's sizes available on Amazon.
Waterproof and breathable garden gloves for digging and planting. Innovative solution for digging loose soil and protects hands from broken fingernails, bruised fingertips, dirt, sweat and injuries while gardening. Variety of colors and men's and women's sizes available on Amazon.
Soil Moist Mats For Hanging Baskets, Planters and Containers 6 piece pack: $8.52
Mat reduces plant watering by 50%. Easy to use, ideal for hanging baskets and containers. Available at Amazon.
Mat reduces plant watering by 50%. Easy to use, ideal for hanging baskets and containers. Available at Amazon.
Rain Gel-Jector: $7.25
Works with your standard household caulk gun. Lets you add water retaining gel to an established container-just where it's needed, up to 4" below the surface. Cuts down dramatically on the need to water. Four trigger squeezes is enough for a 12" basket for an entire season. Each Rain Gel-Jector contains enough gel for five baskets. Available at Kinsman.
Works with your standard household caulk gun. Lets you add water retaining gel to an established container-just where it's needed, up to 4" below the surface. Cuts down dramatically on the need to water. Four trigger squeezes is enough for a 12" basket for an entire season. Each Rain Gel-Jector contains enough gel for five baskets. Available at Kinsman.
Glass Greenhouse Ornament: $19.95 each
A reminder of the season gardeners love best! Perfect for the gardener on your list. Blown glass and hand painted details have a vintage appeal. Available at Gardener's Supply Company.
A reminder of the season gardeners love best! Perfect for the gardener on your list. Blown glass and hand painted details have a vintage appeal. Available at Gardener's Supply Company.
Terracotta Plant Waterer: $14 each
Great for vacations. Simply set and go! No overflow means you won't lose any soil or nutrients. Set of 4 per pack. Use wine or soda bottles. Available on Amazon.
Great for vacations. Simply set and go! No overflow means you won't lose any soil or nutrients. Set of 4 per pack. Use wine or soda bottles. Available on Amazon.
Gifts Between $20 & $75
Nutscene Tin of Twine, 3-Ply, 492 Feet, Green: $24 each
Use for supporting both old and new stems. Nutscene Twines are soft, pliable and gentle to your plants when tying. The spool can be easily carried or used from the pocket, leaving both hands free to tie. By drawing the twine from the can you can be assured the twine won't tangle. Available on Amazon.
Use for supporting both old and new stems. Nutscene Twines are soft, pliable and gentle to your plants when tying. The spool can be easily carried or used from the pocket, leaving both hands free to tie. By drawing the twine from the can you can be assured the twine won't tangle. Available on Amazon.
KuvuPro Pack (5x15", 5x9"): $22.95 Each
The Kuvu™ Home organization product that can be used in hundreds of ways to hang, wrap, hold, loop, organize and store almost anything you can think of. Perfect tool storage solution for garage, basement, storage room and other cluttered areas of your home. Made from 30% recycled truck tires. They can withstand outdoor extreme temperatures, cold or hot. Available at Kinsman.
The Kuvu™ Home organization product that can be used in hundreds of ways to hang, wrap, hold, loop, organize and store almost anything you can think of. Perfect tool storage solution for garage, basement, storage room and other cluttered areas of your home. Made from 30% recycled truck tires. They can withstand outdoor extreme temperatures, cold or hot. Available at Kinsman.
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20" Single Tier Basket Planter & Liner Set: $49.95 for both
The advantages of side planting are many. You get a lush, fully covered container much more quickly and an impressive floral display in weeks instead of months. But side planting used to require time-consuming handwork, cutting holes in liners or juggling loose moss. Pamela Crawford's new side planting containers mean you can create spectacular plantings in a small fraction of the time it used to take.
Basic Basket Planters are constructed from heavy gauge steel wire coated in black plastic and are supplied with removable clip-on chains. New-design baskets and liners give spectacular instant results. Ingenious holes and slits in the coco-fiber allow mature plants with 3" to 4 " root balls to be inserted.
20" diameter x 9" deep holds 14 side plants, fourteen top-edging plants and three 6" or one gallon size centerpieces. Available at Side Planting Baskets.
The advantages of side planting are many. You get a lush, fully covered container much more quickly and an impressive floral display in weeks instead of months. But side planting used to require time-consuming handwork, cutting holes in liners or juggling loose moss. Pamela Crawford's new side planting containers mean you can create spectacular plantings in a small fraction of the time it used to take.
Basic Basket Planters are constructed from heavy gauge steel wire coated in black plastic and are supplied with removable clip-on chains. New-design baskets and liners give spectacular instant results. Ingenious holes and slits in the coco-fiber allow mature plants with 3" to 4 " root balls to be inserted.
20" diameter x 9" deep holds 14 side plants, fourteen top-edging plants and three 6" or one gallon size centerpieces. Available at Side Planting Baskets.
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Rose Pruning Gloves for Men and Women. Thorn-Proof Goatskin Leather Gardening Gloves with Long Cowhide Gauntlet to Protect Your Arms: $26
Finally, a rose glove that protects your hands from thorns yet is comfortable, breathable and stays flexible even after washing.
Finally, a rose glove that protects your hands from thorns yet is comfortable, breathable and stays flexible even after washing.
- 100% natural premium goat grain ensures puncture resistance keeping your hands safe and blood-free from scratches.
- Extended split suede cuff prevents cuts on the arms allowing you to deadhead your roses painlessly.
- Pliable and flexible enough to maintain dexterity for fine motor tasks such as planting seeds.
- Buttery soft texture due to lanolin acts to moisturize hands keeping them supple. Great for people with sensitive skin.
- Ergonomically designed thumbs make it easier to grip garden tools. Great for people with arthritis.
Rolling Garden Seat with Turnbar: $73
This comfortable Rolling Garden Seat helps make your gardening easy, eliminating the back pressure, pain and stress caused by continuous squatting, stooping, kneeling and other repetitive movements. You sit on an old-fashioned tractor-style seat that is adjustable up to 18inches high and swivels in any direction. Great for gardening, painting, yard clean up and more. Available at Amazon, Lowe's, and Kotula's.
This comfortable Rolling Garden Seat helps make your gardening easy, eliminating the back pressure, pain and stress caused by continuous squatting, stooping, kneeling and other repetitive movements. You sit on an old-fashioned tractor-style seat that is adjustable up to 18inches high and swivels in any direction. Great for gardening, painting, yard clean up and more. Available at Amazon, Lowe's, and Kotula's.
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Collapsible Trunk Caddy: $23
Transport flowers from the nursery as well as organizing toys, sports equipment and shopping. Available at Garden Artisans.
Transport flowers from the nursery as well as organizing toys, sports equipment and shopping. Available at Garden Artisans.
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Pamela Crawford Living Wall Planter with Liner: $34.95
Add a new dimension to your garden by planting a Living Wall Planter. Plants not included. Available at Kinsman.
Add a new dimension to your garden by planting a Living Wall Planter. Plants not included. Available at Kinsman.
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Reclaimed Wood Succulent Centerpiece: $60
Add something fresh to your décor or send a thoughtful gift with this beautiful assortment of succulents in a reclaimed wooden planter. Nestled inside this stylish hexagon-shaped planter, you'll find a wonderful variety of succulents in different shapes, colors, and sizes—all of which will flourish with the help of the easy care instructions we've included. This gift arrives with a decorative moss that can be removed upon arrival. Available at Harry and David
Add something fresh to your décor or send a thoughtful gift with this beautiful assortment of succulents in a reclaimed wooden planter. Nestled inside this stylish hexagon-shaped planter, you'll find a wonderful variety of succulents in different shapes, colors, and sizes—all of which will flourish with the help of the easy care instructions we've included. This gift arrives with a decorative moss that can be removed upon arrival. Available at Harry and David
Plummeting temperatures and harsh winds don't deter avid gardeners from thinking about gardening. Right? The winter season affords time for learning about beautiful new plants, better tools, and products that will protect our bodies. And it's the ideal time for dreaming of the possibilities in the coming spring. In this season of giving, do something special for the gardeners in your life and present them with a gift that nurtures their love for all things garden-related!
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Non-profits, Eagle Scout projects, libraries, churches, religious buildings, and public spaces are areas where people seek to create memorials for loved ones, to mark the remembrance of an important event, or to create a meditative space. Landscaping in the front of religious and non- profit buildings is important because it communicates an image to the community and the people they serve. It is the first thing clients, worshipers, and donors see when entering a building. These spaces need to be inviting, low maintenance, budget friendly and sometimes communicate the mission or vision of the organization.
This blog post will outline what you should know when designing and maintaining small volunteer public spaces, like the areas outside of a library, landscapes surrounding non-profit buildings and worship spaces, as well as memorial gardens. If you are planning to memorialize a loved one at your church, park or school, you can use these guidelines when discussing options with your organization.
This blog post will outline what you should know when designing and maintaining small volunteer public spaces, like the areas outside of a library, landscapes surrounding non-profit buildings and worship spaces, as well as memorial gardens. If you are planning to memorialize a loved one at your church, park or school, you can use these guidelines when discussing options with your organization.
Let’s say that you have determined the location of your project. There are several questions you need to ask yourself before you can begin:
What is the budget?
Determines level of donor funds required for immediate installation and for maintenance.
How will the space be used?
Defines the material used, orientation of seating, safety and lighting issues, and location of memorial plaques or signs. If it is a prayerful space, consider buffering for sound and traffic noise.
When will the space be used?
This will influence specific choices in lighting, accessibility, safety and weather factors like wind, salting and shoveling.
Who are the key players and decision makers?
Identify if there are councils, leaders or volunteer boards that need to be involved. Clearly understand how often communication needs to take place and who has final approval of various aspects of the project.
Assess your growing conditions, and select only plants designed to thrive in those conditions.
Careful evaluation of sun, shadows, salt spray, and utilities (above and below) saves money. Selecting native plants will improve chances of success. Natives rarely require pesticides. You’ll also save money which would have been spent replacing dead plants which weren’t well-suited for the location.
Who will install and manage the installation?
If you have the money and materials, now it’s time to evaluate the number of volunteers needed to install your plan. This effort may simply require working with a maintenance staff member, but it may involve coordinating many people over a weekend. Though it may seem obvious, ensure someone is in charge of the volunteers.
What are the maintenance requirements and how much will maintenance cost? This is probably the most important question that determines the success of the project.
Who will weed, water and mulch? Who will treat pavers or concrete? Restain wood bench? Manage pests?
Even an aluminum bench in the woods needs annual tending to keep weeds from growing up and around it. Not only do project volunteers have to consider weeding and annual mulching, but hardscape maintenance is also part of maintenance consideration: pavers need treated with silicon, concrete needs sealing, light bulbs need replacing.
How and who will maintain the site?
An often overlooked, but necessary aspect of planning ensures the space achieves and keeps its goals for many years.
What is the budget?
Determines level of donor funds required for immediate installation and for maintenance.
How will the space be used?
Defines the material used, orientation of seating, safety and lighting issues, and location of memorial plaques or signs. If it is a prayerful space, consider buffering for sound and traffic noise.
When will the space be used?
This will influence specific choices in lighting, accessibility, safety and weather factors like wind, salting and shoveling.
Who are the key players and decision makers?
Identify if there are councils, leaders or volunteer boards that need to be involved. Clearly understand how often communication needs to take place and who has final approval of various aspects of the project.
Assess your growing conditions, and select only plants designed to thrive in those conditions.
Careful evaluation of sun, shadows, salt spray, and utilities (above and below) saves money. Selecting native plants will improve chances of success. Natives rarely require pesticides. You’ll also save money which would have been spent replacing dead plants which weren’t well-suited for the location.
Who will install and manage the installation?
If you have the money and materials, now it’s time to evaluate the number of volunteers needed to install your plan. This effort may simply require working with a maintenance staff member, but it may involve coordinating many people over a weekend. Though it may seem obvious, ensure someone is in charge of the volunteers.
What are the maintenance requirements and how much will maintenance cost? This is probably the most important question that determines the success of the project.
Who will weed, water and mulch? Who will treat pavers or concrete? Restain wood bench? Manage pests?
Even an aluminum bench in the woods needs annual tending to keep weeds from growing up and around it. Not only do project volunteers have to consider weeding and annual mulching, but hardscape maintenance is also part of maintenance consideration: pavers need treated with silicon, concrete needs sealing, light bulbs need replacing.
How and who will maintain the site?
An often overlooked, but necessary aspect of planning ensures the space achieves and keeps its goals for many years.
Key Design Principles for Sites on a budget and managed by volunteers:
Know your site conditions: Evaluate planting zone, sun, soil, moisture, wind, utilities, snow, salt spray, deer browsing and safety concerns.
Choose plants that are low maintenance: Read labels and choose plants that require minimal pruning. Choose plants that are disease and pest resistant. Native plants often fit the bill and new cultivars are bred to be friendly for a small garden.
Plant in layers: When the garden is mature, plants should cover the soil so that minimal mulch is needed and weed seeds can’t contact bare soil. This doesn’t mean beds are overplanted. It means that low-growing ground covers and shrubs serve as a “green mulch.”
Quality: Benches are commonly used to memorialize loved ones. Invest in commercial grade benches, planters and lights. Residential quality products purchased at local stores will disappoint and require replacement. Commercial grade products last decades. By choosing commercial grade products, planting the right plant in the right spot, and choosing low maintenance plants, you increase the likelihood the space will achieve its long-term goals at minimal cost.
Know your site conditions: Evaluate planting zone, sun, soil, moisture, wind, utilities, snow, salt spray, deer browsing and safety concerns.
Choose plants that are low maintenance: Read labels and choose plants that require minimal pruning. Choose plants that are disease and pest resistant. Native plants often fit the bill and new cultivars are bred to be friendly for a small garden.
Plant in layers: When the garden is mature, plants should cover the soil so that minimal mulch is needed and weed seeds can’t contact bare soil. This doesn’t mean beds are overplanted. It means that low-growing ground covers and shrubs serve as a “green mulch.”
Quality: Benches are commonly used to memorialize loved ones. Invest in commercial grade benches, planters and lights. Residential quality products purchased at local stores will disappoint and require replacement. Commercial grade products last decades. By choosing commercial grade products, planting the right plant in the right spot, and choosing low maintenance plants, you increase the likelihood the space will achieve its long-term goals at minimal cost.
Let’s take a look at a couple of examples to illustrate designs and effort required for non-profit landscapes.
Mary’s Place: Pittsburgh Home for Homeless Pregnant Women
This non-profit serves the spiritual, physical and emotional needs of homeless pregnant mothers and their children in Pittsburgh. The volunteers purchased a friary perfectly suited for the mission. The landscape needed to be low maintenance, low budget, and fit into a residential neighborhood. When residents walk through the beautiful, original door, the board wanted to recreate the feeling of ‘coming home’ rather than living in a commercial ‘facility’.
The home’s outside plant material was overgrown and had invasive ivy growing on the building. The board organized a group of 100 volunteers over a weekend to rip out and install the foundation planting. A local landscape center sold plants at a discount. The growing conditions are part sun with an abundance of deer. Plants used were: Clethra, Deutzia, Boxwood, Bird’s nest spruce, dwarf Korean Viburnum and mixed begonia. These plants won’t outgrow their space, have little pest and disease issues and, with the exception of begonias, offer four seasons of interest.
The home’s outside plant material was overgrown and had invasive ivy growing on the building. The board organized a group of 100 volunteers over a weekend to rip out and install the foundation planting. A local landscape center sold plants at a discount. The growing conditions are part sun with an abundance of deer. Plants used were: Clethra, Deutzia, Boxwood, Bird’s nest spruce, dwarf Korean Viburnum and mixed begonia. These plants won’t outgrow their space, have little pest and disease issues and, with the exception of begonias, offer four seasons of interest.
BEFORE
BEFORE
CONCEPT PLAN
AFTER
 BEFORE |  AFTER |
 BEFORE  BEFORE |  AFTER  AFTER |
 BEFORE |  AFTER |
St. Bernard Catholic Church - Pittsburgh
Donor Garden to Memorialize a Young Member of St. Bernard Church in Mt. Lebanon, PA
The purpose was to have a space to memorialize a loved one. The space chosen is in the front of St. Bernard Catholic Church located on a major road used by commuters and passed by pedestrians. The site is also located at a stop light. The donor garden communicates the Patron Saint of the church, Saint Bernard. Traffic moves quickly past this location.
QA Architecture was hired to design the hardscape and Gwen’s company designed the plantings to reflect the architecture and symbols of St. Bernard. The installation was completed by professional contractors. Maintenance is done by paid staff at the church. Massed plantings of boxwood, hydrangea paniculata and “knock out” roses were used to create a long season of blooming and compliment the formal architecture of the building. Annual pruning and a small amount of mulch are the only maintenance needed at this site.
The purpose was to have a space to memorialize a loved one. The space chosen is in the front of St. Bernard Catholic Church located on a major road used by commuters and passed by pedestrians. The site is also located at a stop light. The donor garden communicates the Patron Saint of the church, Saint Bernard. Traffic moves quickly past this location.
QA Architecture was hired to design the hardscape and Gwen’s company designed the plantings to reflect the architecture and symbols of St. Bernard. The installation was completed by professional contractors. Maintenance is done by paid staff at the church. Massed plantings of boxwood, hydrangea paniculata and “knock out” roses were used to create a long season of blooming and compliment the formal architecture of the building. Annual pruning and a small amount of mulch are the only maintenance needed at this site.
BEFORE
 AFTER INSTALLATION |  HARDSCAPE DETAILS |
3 YRS LATER
Prayer Space:
St. Bernard needed to move a beloved Mary statue and create a prayer and meditation space that could also be used for seasonal celebrations, like May Crowning and First Communion celebrations for their elementary school. A church member donated funds for this project. The result is an attractive, peaceful space which naturally welcomes parishioners. Commercial grade benches and pots were used. Volunteers install annual plantings. Paid maintenance staff weed, prune and mulch this area. Plants used in this space were Ilex Opaca (Amerian Holly), Deutzia, Lilac and Roses.
St. Bernard needed to move a beloved Mary statue and create a prayer and meditation space that could also be used for seasonal celebrations, like May Crowning and First Communion celebrations for their elementary school. A church member donated funds for this project. The result is an attractive, peaceful space which naturally welcomes parishioners. Commercial grade benches and pots were used. Volunteers install annual plantings. Paid maintenance staff weed, prune and mulch this area. Plants used in this space were Ilex Opaca (Amerian Holly), Deutzia, Lilac and Roses.
BEFORE
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AFTER
Gardens in public places create a lasting impression. That’s why careful thought and planning should be done long before shovels touch the ground. These are the kinds of projects that deliver intangible benefits like welcome, hope, and love for our neighbors and community.
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Native plants in a suburban garden get a bad rap. Natives have a reputation for being messy and hard to manage because they are often planted with perennials. Some gardeners leave their perennials to dry, which attracts birds. Others run out of time in the fall and wait to cut back their plants in the spring, leaving untidy beds. Regardless of your gardening style, native perennials, shrubs, and small trees deserve a place in your garden, according to Kate Brands, author of the book: Native Plants for the Small Yard. She says that natives are beautiful, have many ecological benefits and fit well into a residential landscape. Let’s explore why.
A plant is considered a native if it has occurred naturally in a particular region, ecosystem or habitat without human introduction. Ideally your native plant selection should first start in your region then expand to larger reference areas. To illustrate, let’s start with Pittsburgh, where Holly and I live. When I design a landscape, I start by selecting plants from Western, PA. If necessary, I’ll expand my search to native plants that grow across the entire state. Finally, should my client have a very specific need, then I expand the search to those which are native to North Eastern US, then to North America. Plants introduced during colonization by Europeans or in trade with South America, Africa or Asia are NOT native. Pennsylvania plants are primarily deciduous, so to create a foundation planting that has winter interest, we sometimes expand our tolerance for native plants to include evergreens from the broader North America. For a small city yard which has growing conditions in a zone higher than the suburbs due to radiant heat reflected from paving and brick, we occasionally consider native plants slightly south of our region.
Why use native plants? According to Kate Brands, at least one third of the world’s food supply is dependent on pollinators. Aside from the well-known honeybee there are thousands of species of native bees, wasps, moths, butterflies and other insects in North America that are important for pollination of our food. These native pollinators depend on native plant species for survival. Non-native plants are not part of this food chain. For example, most species of native caterpillars rely on native plants. In keeping with the idea of a food chain, many birds rely on these native caterpillars. One nest of baby chickadees requires 350 to 570 caterpillars every day, depending on how many chicks there are. So, an incredible 6,000 to 9,000 caterpillars are required to raise one clutch of chickadee to adults. Almost all baby birds require insects like caterpillars to grow, even birds that mature into seedeaters. What we plant in our landscapes determines what can live in our landscapes.
There are many other reasons for going “native.” Beauty is made easy. Native plants have a more subtle color palette that mimics nature, so they look naturally beautiful and unified to our eye when grouped together. Choosing a wide assortment of plants also ensures seasonal interest, with the bonus of attracting colorful birds and butterflies. Many people support the local food movement. Native plants are a keystone species for growing local food since so many pollinators depend on native plants to survive. Nature, which inherently includes native plants, gives people a sense of place. These plants are tied to the landscape and culture of our local area.
Native plants have less need for herbicides and pesticides, resulting in a healthier yard for your family and pets. Native plants co-exist with nature rather than competing with it, so they’re often easier to maintain than nonnative species. When used in stormwater management projects, native plants hold stream banks in place, prevent erosion, absorb water, and filter pollutants from our waterways.
Natives can also be used as alternatives to commonly sold invasive plants. This graphic is from Kate Brand’s book (Pennsylvania Natives):
Information rich resources include the websites listed below. They offer adjustable plans, plant lists for a variety of conditions as well as growing conditions for each plant.
The most challenging part of using natives in a small space is choosing trees. Often native shrubs will grow into small trees. For small yards, it is important that each plant works for the real estate it uses. Trees and shrubs should have at least two, and better yet, three seasons of interest. For example a chokeberry has spring flowers, summer berries and fall color.
Courtesy: Kate Brand's book page 54: Native Plants for the Small Yard
 Courtesy eplans 1040-99 | When designing with natives, choose a bed shape and plants that suit your tastes and lifestyle. When planning a new flower garden or adding to one you already have: |
- Start small. You don’t have to convert your whole yard to native plants. Instead try introducing native plants little bits at a time. It’s more economical and this approach will let you get to know each plant well.
- Try a more informal garden, which requires less maintenance. By informal we mean more natural looking as compared to a formal Italian-style garden.
- Curved garden edges have an organic feel and are also easier to maintain than sharp edges. Small spaces benefit from clean bed lines and geometric shapes, like circles and ovals.
- Keep plant choices minimal – especially in a small space. A mix of just a few plants or colors looks better than a lot of different things all at once. Make sure to include evergreens for structure and winter interest.
- Plant a swath or mass of the same plant together. This is the way plants grow in nature and so this kind of planting looks pleasing when we see it in a garden space.
- Include layers of plants, with varying heights and bloom times, so that the ground is ideally covered with plants. This reduces or eliminates the need for the addition of mulch over time since the plants provide their own green mulch once they grow in. Weeds often establish on bare soil, so the idea is to cover the ground with the plants you want and crowd out the ones you don’t. This kind of planting will also help the soil naturally retain moisture, and prevent erosion. If you let plants die back in place, you’ll also feed the soil.
- Container gardens are a good way to start small and to give you the opportunity to get to know each plant. Not sure you’ll like a new perennial? Place it in a large, attractive pot and locate strategically in a garden bed, patio, or deck. This way, it can be moved to allow for more sun or shade.
- Know your site requirements: sun exposure, soil (take a soil test), wind, and moisture. Look at what’s growing well in the neighborhood and in areas near your home. Don't forget to consider what has died and why. This information tells a story about the soil, light, pests and wind.
- Read plant labels to ensure the plant hardiness zone and growing conditions fit your site requirements.
- Take time to plan. The biggest mistake we all make is falling in love with a plant, and purchasing it without knowing if our yards have the correct growing conditions. Nurseries have begun to discontinue plant warranties. Warranties aren’t always helpful because plants living in the wrong home don’t show stress for 2 or more years.
Hopefully, we’ve made a strong case for integrating native plants into your home landscape. Natives are ideally suited for your local growing conditions. Many natives are keystone species, which are a vital link in the food chain. And lastly, natives are beautiful, require fewer pesticides, and are uniquely suited for water mananagement. Look for displays of natives at your local nurseries and public gardens.
Evergreens aren’t the only star performers in the winter garden. Many deciduous trees have four seasons of interest, offering a big impact in limited space. Their spring and fall leaf color are attractive and the bonus: their bark is their best attribute. As you plan for fall planting and save your money for spring purchases, consider adding trees that offer winter interest with their bark, branches and shape. Here are a few of the brightest and the best:
Coral Bark Maple
Acer palmate 'Sango-kaku'
Zone: 5-8
Height: 15-20’
Width: 15-20’
A tree with four seasons of interest. Light green summer leaves turn to salmon in fall. Yearly pruning encourages the red branches.
Height: 15-20’
Width: 15-20’
A tree with four seasons of interest. Light green summer leaves turn to salmon in fall. Yearly pruning encourages the red branches.
Paperbark Maple
Acer Griseum
Zone: 4 to 8
Height: 20-30’
Width: 15’
A true specimen, this small ornamental tree has unrivaled aesthetic qualities. It is somewhat expensive but revered for its year-round splendor. The cinnamon-colored bark is visually striking because it naturally exfoliates into the most interesting layers. The contrast of its late autumn red leaves against the peeling bark makes this tree an outstanding specimen. Have patience with its slow growth; it’s worth the wait!
Height: 20-30’
Width: 15’
A true specimen, this small ornamental tree has unrivaled aesthetic qualities. It is somewhat expensive but revered for its year-round splendor. The cinnamon-colored bark is visually striking because it naturally exfoliates into the most interesting layers. The contrast of its late autumn red leaves against the peeling bark makes this tree an outstanding specimen. Have patience with its slow growth; it’s worth the wait!
Striped Maple (aka Snake Bark Maple, Moosewood)
Acer pensylvanicum
Zone: 3-7
Height: 15’-25’
Width: 15’-25’
A lovely small tree that should be pruned as needed to show off the beautiful bark. It does not tolerate afternoon sun, typical of an understory tree. The young branches are green with conspicuously long, vertical white stripes and the clear yellow to golden fall color is a real head-turner. Recommended cultivars include ‘Erythrocladum’, which has twigs that have a beautiful bright coral-red winter color and ‘White Tigress’, which has green bark with pronounced white striations and is more heat tolerant.
Height: 15’-25’
Width: 15’-25’
A lovely small tree that should be pruned as needed to show off the beautiful bark. It does not tolerate afternoon sun, typical of an understory tree. The young branches are green with conspicuously long, vertical white stripes and the clear yellow to golden fall color is a real head-turner. Recommended cultivars include ‘Erythrocladum’, which has twigs that have a beautiful bright coral-red winter color and ‘White Tigress’, which has green bark with pronounced white striations and is more heat tolerant.
Persian Parrotia (Ironwood)
Parrotia persica
Zone: 4 to 8
Height: 30
Width: 20
This is one of the best specimen trees known for foliage, bark and pest resistance. Persian Ironwood is an outstanding small ornamental tree with few rivals. It is typically a low- branched shrub, but also can be found in tree form. Bark exfoliates on older trunks exposing a mosaic of gray, brown, white and green. Fall colors of yellow to orange to scarlet are outstanding. Recommended cultivars include: ‘Biltmore’, which has a low-branching, rounded form with fabulous bark, and ‘Vanessa’, which has an upright, columnar form with vivid yellow fall color.
Height: 30
Width: 20
This is one of the best specimen trees known for foliage, bark and pest resistance. Persian Ironwood is an outstanding small ornamental tree with few rivals. It is typically a low- branched shrub, but also can be found in tree form. Bark exfoliates on older trunks exposing a mosaic of gray, brown, white and green. Fall colors of yellow to orange to scarlet are outstanding. Recommended cultivars include: ‘Biltmore’, which has a low-branching, rounded form with fabulous bark, and ‘Vanessa’, which has an upright, columnar form with vivid yellow fall color.
Lacebark Pine
Pinus bungeana
Zone: 4 to 7
Can be pruned smaller.
Height: 30-40
Width: 20-30
Though a slow grower, this specimen tree is valued for its showy, striking bark. It must be steadily limbed up (pruning back a tree’s lower branches) from a young age for its trunk and larger branches to receive proper sunlight. This develops the handsome mottled bark of exfoliating patches of green, white, gray, orange and brown. Beware that some damage may occur under heavy snowfall and ice loads.
Can be pruned smaller.
Height: 30-40
Width: 20-30
Though a slow grower, this specimen tree is valued for its showy, striking bark. It must be steadily limbed up (pruning back a tree’s lower branches) from a young age for its trunk and larger branches to receive proper sunlight. This develops the handsome mottled bark of exfoliating patches of green, white, gray, orange and brown. Beware that some damage may occur under heavy snowfall and ice loads.
Japanese Stewartia
Zone: 5 to 7
Height: 25’-40’
Width: 10’-20’
One of the nicest multi-season ornamental trees for the garden. It offers magnificent camouflage-hued exfoliating bark with flaky, but smooth, patches of gray, brown and rust. Additionally, it has beautiful orange-red fall color along with the lovely white flowers in midsummer. Avoid placing this Japanese native in hot spots because it prefers morning sun. It performs best in light shade, especially in the hottest part of summer.
Height: 25’-40’
Width: 10’-20’
One of the nicest multi-season ornamental trees for the garden. It offers magnificent camouflage-hued exfoliating bark with flaky, but smooth, patches of gray, brown and rust. Additionally, it has beautiful orange-red fall color along with the lovely white flowers in midsummer. Avoid placing this Japanese native in hot spots because it prefers morning sun. It performs best in light shade, especially in the hottest part of summer.
Specimen trees with interesting bark accent the garden with four season interest. Consider planting the tree where you can enjoy its beauty in the winter. Locate as a lawn tree or within a bed and be sure there are no other plants fighting for center stage. Many nurseries only order specimen trees at the request of the customer. If these trees have inspired you, place an order this fall with your nursery for spring delivery. As we've mentioned in previous blogs, always site the tree according to its growing requirements (soil, sun, wind, & moisture.)
Incorporating a specimen tree with an unusual bark adds a lovely layer of dimension to your garden. Your eyes will be drawn to it year-round. But you will be especially thankful you made the investment during the long, dreary days of winter. When flowers are gone and deciduous trees have lost their leaves, the bark on these trees stands out magnificently.
Incorporating a specimen tree with an unusual bark adds a lovely layer of dimension to your garden. Your eyes will be drawn to it year-round. But you will be especially thankful you made the investment during the long, dreary days of winter. When flowers are gone and deciduous trees have lost their leaves, the bark on these trees stands out magnificently.
There is nothing like crisp apples to celebrate fall. Have you ever wanted to try growing your own, but think your yard is too small? Think again! Romantic apple blossoms in spring will enchant homeowners, apartment dwellers, condo owners, suburbanites and those short on space. Columnar (narrow) fruit trees offer structure, fragrant and lovely blooms, fruit, and fall color in a home garden.
Popular columnar fruit trees include apples, peaches, plums, and elderberry. When considering your purchase, make sure your fruit tree is not cordoned. Cordoned means it is a full size, regular tree that has been pruned to size. Cordoned trees require skilled and properly timed pruning.
The benefits of a small fruit tree are the ease of management and the ability to plant in small spaces. The fruits are easy to pick without having to get a ladder or some other height-stretching tool. Many columnar fruit trees mature at 8 to 10 feet tall, but less than two feet in diameter. An advantage is that many are extremely healthy and disease resistant. When grown in full sun, expect full-sized fruit the first year from planting, so long as they are self pollinating or there are two or more varieties for cross pollination. As trees mature and fertility levels are maintained, the yield of fruit will increase.
Design Considerations
Columnar fruit trees offer a harvest of tasty fruit within easy reach of the patio table. The impact of a loaded fruit tree in a tiny space is unique, and sometimes irresistible. Columnar trees grown flanking an entrance add a vertical accent to your home. Plant alongside a border or fence to offer screened views. Before purchasing, consider placement and the tree’s design impact as well as the required growing conditions. Provide full sun and make provisions to protect from deer browsing. Other design ideas include:
Columnar fruit trees offer a harvest of tasty fruit within easy reach of the patio table. The impact of a loaded fruit tree in a tiny space is unique, and sometimes irresistible. Columnar trees grown flanking an entrance add a vertical accent to your home. Plant alongside a border or fence to offer screened views. Before purchasing, consider placement and the tree’s design impact as well as the required growing conditions. Provide full sun and make provisions to protect from deer browsing. Other design ideas include:
- Plant a succession of trees for privacy. A row of trees serve as a deciduous hedge without consuming a lot of your landscape real estate. Consider using columnar fruit trees to replace privet, spirea, and burning bush hedge rows.
- Create unity in your landscape by adding thin columnar trees in key areas to create rhythm in an existing bed.
- Decorate your patio or deck with tubs of fruit trees. Place tubs in a location to view from inside or situate them to create privacy from a neighboring deck or balcony. Consider the weight of the planters to determine the number of tubs your structure can support and be sure to follow planting instructions for winter protection.
- Draw attention upward or use as a focal point. When not used as a hedge, columnar shaped plants are like exclamation points in the landscape. Use fruit trees as accents instead of using planters, columnar junipers or arborvitaes as focal points in the garden.
- Do not use them to screen an eyesore. Columnar plants will draw the eye toward the view achieving the opposite desired affect.
- Frame a view. For example, two cross-pollinating fruit trees flanking an entrance to a garden room will frame the view, creating an eye-catching “doorway.” Place a focal point within the framed view to complete your design. The focal point can be a planter, bench, specimen planting, or a unique rock or garden ornament. Stand and carefully consider your view to ensure the plants don’t frame a trash can, compost bin or unsightly view.
Spacing for Success:
To plant as a hedge, space about 15-20 inches between the trees. With the very slim-growing varieties, Mannequin® and Topmodel, the spacing can also be a little closer together; with the slightly broader varieties, Fresco® and Equilibro®, the spacing can be a bit further apart. Groups of three, in which three columnar apples (different varieties are best) are positioned in a triangle with a spacing of 15-30 inches is an option. Such a planting looks like only one apple column after a few years.
To plant as a hedge, space about 15-20 inches between the trees. With the very slim-growing varieties, Mannequin® and Topmodel, the spacing can also be a little closer together; with the slightly broader varieties, Fresco® and Equilibro®, the spacing can be a bit further apart. Groups of three, in which three columnar apples (different varieties are best) are positioned in a triangle with a spacing of 15-30 inches is an option. Such a planting looks like only one apple column after a few years.
Secret to Success: Chill Hours
Fruit trees in the stone fruit (peach, apricot and plum) and pome fruit (apple and pear) families require a minimum number of chill hours to set fruit. Chill hours are considered temperatures between 32 and 46 degrees and occur between October and February.
Your first step in fruit tree ownership is to determine the amount of chill hours in your area. To do this, contact your local nursery or cooperative extension office or visit Azure to calculate your chill hours. The simplest way to determine chill hours of a tree is to look at the tag on the tree – it will say how many chill hours are required – if it doesn’t and you don’t know – DON”T BUY THE TREE.
Fruit trees in the stone fruit (peach, apricot and plum) and pome fruit (apple and pear) families require a minimum number of chill hours to set fruit. Chill hours are considered temperatures between 32 and 46 degrees and occur between October and February.
Your first step in fruit tree ownership is to determine the amount of chill hours in your area. To do this, contact your local nursery or cooperative extension office or visit Azure to calculate your chill hours. The simplest way to determine chill hours of a tree is to look at the tag on the tree – it will say how many chill hours are required – if it doesn’t and you don’t know – DON”T BUY THE TREE.
What Type of Tree?
A google search will offer a selection of columnar trees. As mentioned earlier, columnar trees are not the same as cordon fruit trees. Minarette fruit series is an example of a cordon fruit tree. Popular columnar apple varieties include Ballerina and Urban series. The Crimson Rocket is a popular peach variety (no sponsorship).
For hedge plants consider the more vigorous Malini® columnar apple varieties, which reach a height of approximately 10 ft after 8 years. Other varieties to consider for hedge plants include: Dulcessa®-Fresco®, Malini-Equilibro®, Cuckoo® and also the latest novelties Malini®-Mannequin and Malini®-Topmodel that ripen in September. Malini®-Subito®, Pronto® and Greenlight® form a significantly more compact hedge (with a height of about 6-8 ft. after 7-8 years).
A google search will offer a selection of columnar trees. As mentioned earlier, columnar trees are not the same as cordon fruit trees. Minarette fruit series is an example of a cordon fruit tree. Popular columnar apple varieties include Ballerina and Urban series. The Crimson Rocket is a popular peach variety (no sponsorship).
For hedge plants consider the more vigorous Malini® columnar apple varieties, which reach a height of approximately 10 ft after 8 years. Other varieties to consider for hedge plants include: Dulcessa®-Fresco®, Malini-Equilibro®, Cuckoo® and also the latest novelties Malini®-Mannequin and Malini®-Topmodel that ripen in September. Malini®-Subito®, Pronto® and Greenlight® form a significantly more compact hedge (with a height of about 6-8 ft. after 7-8 years).
Homeowner Growing and Maintenance Tips:
If planting in the ground, conduct a soil test. Tests are available through your co-operative extension office or garden centers like Lowe’s and Home Depot. These are inexpensive and provide a wealth of information, saving you money in the long run . Cooperative tests cost as little as $15 and will explain the type of soil enhancements needed for healthy fruit trees.
For new plantings, dig a hole one and a half times wider than the plant's container; place plant in hole, keeping the top of the root ball ground level; and back fill with dirt. Water thoroughly and then mulch around the base to conserve moisture and reduce weeds. New plantings require more frequent watering than established plants. Wind, temperature and soil are factors to consider in watering. Feed plants in early spring and again in early fall with an all-purpose fertilizer, following label instructions.
Pruning columnar fruit trees is simple: all side shoots that are more than 8 inches long should be cut back in the spring to 2-6 inches. Period. At most, and especially when the growth is very vigorous, this cut can be done twice a year; once before the beginning of the growing season, at the end of February, and once in the summer around the longest day.
If planting in the ground, conduct a soil test. Tests are available through your co-operative extension office or garden centers like Lowe’s and Home Depot. These are inexpensive and provide a wealth of information, saving you money in the long run . Cooperative tests cost as little as $15 and will explain the type of soil enhancements needed for healthy fruit trees.
For new plantings, dig a hole one and a half times wider than the plant's container; place plant in hole, keeping the top of the root ball ground level; and back fill with dirt. Water thoroughly and then mulch around the base to conserve moisture and reduce weeds. New plantings require more frequent watering than established plants. Wind, temperature and soil are factors to consider in watering. Feed plants in early spring and again in early fall with an all-purpose fertilizer, following label instructions.
Pruning columnar fruit trees is simple: all side shoots that are more than 8 inches long should be cut back in the spring to 2-6 inches. Period. At most, and especially when the growth is very vigorous, this cut can be done twice a year; once before the beginning of the growing season, at the end of February, and once in the summer around the longest day.
There are many varieties of columnar fruit trees to choose from, including peaches and apples. To summarize, narrow fruit trees add a refreshing exclamation point to a home garden, through vertical interest, spring blossoms, edible fruit, and attractive fall color. They will make an “appealing” year-round statement in your landscape.
Editing this gardening inspiration blog for my friend Gwen has been gratifying, educational and at times, humbling. Though I don’t have a formal education in landscape design or horticulture, I read voraciously about plants and caring for them. I have thirty-four years of experience as a home gardener. But that doesn’t prevent me from making many common mistakes which have wasted time, labor (mine!) and money.
We want to prevent you from making the same blunders. We hope that you are reading every blog we post to build up your knowledge. We believe this information will help you grow into a more successful gardener. Because a successful gardener is a happy gardener!
Autumn can catch us off guard, and depending on where you live, progress quickly. Here are some important tasks that every gardener should accomplish now that summer has passed.
We want to prevent you from making the same blunders. We hope that you are reading every blog we post to build up your knowledge. We believe this information will help you grow into a more successful gardener. Because a successful gardener is a happy gardener!
Autumn can catch us off guard, and depending on where you live, progress quickly. Here are some important tasks that every gardener should accomplish now that summer has passed.
The Practical Stuff: Regular Tasks that Matter
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Problem Prevention
An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. Fall is the time to prevent pest and disease issues in the winter and spring.
Pests
If you want to prevent mice, spiders and other pests from getting into your home, inspect pest entryways into your home and seal them. Entrances may include areas below your siding, door/window seals, dryer vents, and soffit gaps. For more information on fall pest control, visit Family Handy Man for useful tips and videos.
Diseases
Pests
If you want to prevent mice, spiders and other pests from getting into your home, inspect pest entryways into your home and seal them. Entrances may include areas below your siding, door/window seals, dryer vents, and soffit gaps. For more information on fall pest control, visit Family Handy Man for useful tips and videos.
Diseases
- Remove the leaves of irises to prevent borers from eating the rhizomes in the spring. All diseased leaves must be removed from the yard to prevent spreading diseases to plants or surrounding soil.
- Keep grass mowed until it stops growing. Remove leaves to prevent winter injury and damage from fungal snow mold diseases.
- Prune trees and shrubs to remove all dead and seriously cankered wood.
- Provide winter protection for roses, evergreens, young trees, and sensitive plants to prevent injury from wind and rock salt. Broken limbs are more susceptible to infections through their open wounds.
Plan Ahead
Plan ahead by making a map of your flower and vegetable gardens.
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Play
Play before putting your garden to bed.
- Take a spin around the garden centers and capture some final sales. If it is too late to plant, just overwinter the plants in a cold garage. Proven Winners has informative tips on overwintering pots. https://www.provenwinners.com/overwintering-perennials-shrubs
- Visit an arboretum and note the beautiful fall colors. Consider adding one to your garden next year.
- Enjoy the harvest and collect seeds. Check out Fine Gardening for seed collecting details. https://www.finegardening.com/article/collecting-and-storing-seeds
- Shop local: Grab a friend. Go apple picking and visit your farmer’s market for final vegetable treasures.
There is still plenty to do in your fall garden. The good news is that every single task has a purpose, and will prevent frustration in the coming seasons. Have a joyful, colorful autumn!
You've probably seen newspaper ads and attention-getting banners displayed at local nurseries and garden centers proclaiming, "Fall is for Planting." But is it really wise to plant grass, bulbs, trees and shrubs at the end of a growing season and so close to winter? The answer to this question is a qualified yes. Fall planting can be successful as long as the planting season is not extended too late into the fall, if difficult-to-establish species are avoided, and if proper care (watering, mulching, staking if needed, etc.) is administered after planting. Fall is the time to plant, divide and transplant:
- Many types of trees & shrubs
- Bulbs
- Lawns
- Perennials
- Cold season Annuals
Trees & Shrubs
For good reason, most people think of spring as the preferred planting season. Landscape plants installed in March, April, and May benefit from generous rains and the long growing season that stretches ahead. But more often than not, many regions receive too much precipitation that makes planting difficult, especially on poorly drained sites. Furthermore, the sudden onset of hot, dry weather that typically displaces an often too-short spring can injure tender new plantings. Because of these difficulties, plant trees and shrubs during the period from mid-August to mid-October (zone 5 & 6). During this time, moderate and relatively stable air temperatures prevail, and soil temperatures and moisture levels are usually in a range that promote rapid root development.
If you wait too long into the fall season (November - December) to plant, you run the risk of poor root growth and increased failure rate. Conifers, in fact, need a slightly earlier start than hardwoods, preferring the warmer soil temperatures of the summer to early fall.
Some other slow- to-establish species are best planted in spring. These include:
For good reason, most people think of spring as the preferred planting season. Landscape plants installed in March, April, and May benefit from generous rains and the long growing season that stretches ahead. But more often than not, many regions receive too much precipitation that makes planting difficult, especially on poorly drained sites. Furthermore, the sudden onset of hot, dry weather that typically displaces an often too-short spring can injure tender new plantings. Because of these difficulties, plant trees and shrubs during the period from mid-August to mid-October (zone 5 & 6). During this time, moderate and relatively stable air temperatures prevail, and soil temperatures and moisture levels are usually in a range that promote rapid root development.
If you wait too long into the fall season (November - December) to plant, you run the risk of poor root growth and increased failure rate. Conifers, in fact, need a slightly earlier start than hardwoods, preferring the warmer soil temperatures of the summer to early fall.
Some other slow- to-establish species are best planted in spring. These include:
Trees for Spring Planting
| SCIENTIFIC NAME | COMMON NAME |
| Cladrastis kentukea Cupressaceaea Betulaceae Nyssa sylvatica Pyrus calleryana Cornus Floridia Ginkgo biloba Koelreuteria paniculata Tsuga Zelkova serrata Larix Tilia tomentosa Magnolia Cupressus nootkatensis Quercus Acer Rubrum Prunus Liquidambar styraciflua Liriodendron tulipifera Salix | American Yellowood Bald Cypress Birch Black Gum Tulepo Callery Pear Flowering Dogwood Ginkgo Goldenrain Tree Hemlock Japanese Zelkova Larch Silver Lindens Magnolia Nootka False Cypress Oaks Red maple Stone Fruits (peach, cherry) Sweetgum Tulip Poplar Willow |
In general, install plants with shallow, fibrous root systems in the fall rather than those with fewer, larger roots. Trees that can be successfully planted in the fall include:
Trees for Fall Planting
| SCIENTIFIC NAME PiceaAlnus Fraxinus Aesculus glabra Catalpa Malus Celtis Crataegus Gleditsia triacanthos Aesculus hippocastanum Tilia Acer Gymnocladus dioicus Platanus occidentalis Pinus Picea | COMMON NAME PinesHorse ChestnuAlder Ash Buckeye Catalpa Crabapple Hackberry Hawthorns Gleditsia triacanthos Horse Chestnut Lindens (other than silver) Maples (other than red) Kentucky coffee tree Sycamore Pines Spruces |
Most deciduous shrubs can easily be planted in fall, except for two types: broadleaved evergreens such as rhododendrons and narrow-leafed evergreens such as yews. Both prefer spring planting.
Nurseries sell trees and shrubs in many forms—bare root, container-grown, balled and burlapped, or dug by tree spade. Transplanting can be successful with all forms. Always put extra effort into the planting process to ensure a good start for your plant. The faster the root system is re-established, the better the chances for survival, and the more rapidly your new tree or shrub will grow.
Before planting anything this fall, do some soul searching and ask yourself these questions: What do I want from this tree? (fall color, flowers, shade, fast growth, etc.)
Nurseries sell trees and shrubs in many forms—bare root, container-grown, balled and burlapped, or dug by tree spade. Transplanting can be successful with all forms. Always put extra effort into the planting process to ensure a good start for your plant. The faster the root system is re-established, the better the chances for survival, and the more rapidly your new tree or shrub will grow.
Before planting anything this fall, do some soul searching and ask yourself these questions: What do I want from this tree? (fall color, flowers, shade, fast growth, etc.)
- How much maintenance am I willing to provide? (No tree is maintenance free.)
- Where am I going to plant this tree and what kind of site do I have? For example, is the site wet, dry, sunny or shady? Is the soil loose or is it heavy clay?
- How much room do I have, and how big is this tree going to get?
- Are there any underground or overhead utilities that could interfere with the tree or that the tree will threaten?
Bulbs
September and October are the best months for planting bulbs. This will allow ample time for the bulbs to become well rooted before the ground freezes. Bulbs planted after October may not have time to root adequately and therefore may not flower uniformly in the spring. Freezing and thawing during the winter may also push an unrooted bulb out of the ground.
Plant the bulbs at a depth consistent with the level indicated on the bulb’s directions. As a general rule, this depth is four times the height of the bulb between the soil surface and the tip of the bulb. Make sure to plant the bulbs with the growing tip up. After the ground freezes, cover the bed with a 3-inch mulch to prevent alternate freezing and thawing that breaks roots and damages bulbs. When purchasing bulbs, be attentive to size. There is a direct correlation between the size of a bulb and the size of the flower grown from that bulb.
For more details on planting bulbs visit Colorado State University Extension website.
September and October are the best months for planting bulbs. This will allow ample time for the bulbs to become well rooted before the ground freezes. Bulbs planted after October may not have time to root adequately and therefore may not flower uniformly in the spring. Freezing and thawing during the winter may also push an unrooted bulb out of the ground.
Plant the bulbs at a depth consistent with the level indicated on the bulb’s directions. As a general rule, this depth is four times the height of the bulb between the soil surface and the tip of the bulb. Make sure to plant the bulbs with the growing tip up. After the ground freezes, cover the bed with a 3-inch mulch to prevent alternate freezing and thawing that breaks roots and damages bulbs. When purchasing bulbs, be attentive to size. There is a direct correlation between the size of a bulb and the size of the flower grown from that bulb.
For more details on planting bulbs visit Colorado State University Extension website.
Lawns
Most of the turf grass grown in Zone 5/6 lawns is “cool season,” including Kentucky bluegrass (Poa pratensis), perennial ryegrass (Loliam perenne), and fine fescues (Festucaspp.) Because these grasses grow best in cool weather, late summer to early fall is an ideal time to plant a new lawn, patch bare areas, or overseed an existing lawn. Grass seed must receive regular irrigation, especially until it begins to germinate. This is more likely to happen naturally in fall rather than in spring, when the new grass must withstand hot summer days.
When purchasing, you may find grass seed embedded in what looks like dryer lint. The premise is that this will hold water when the seed is planted and watered. Though this may seem like a good idea, the best practice for getting grass seed to sprout is by making sure it has good contact with the soil. Loosening the top of soil before planting or raking the seed in will achieve this. Newly planted seed may be mulched with a light layer of straw.
Most of the turf grass grown in Zone 5/6 lawns is “cool season,” including Kentucky bluegrass (Poa pratensis), perennial ryegrass (Loliam perenne), and fine fescues (Festucaspp.) Because these grasses grow best in cool weather, late summer to early fall is an ideal time to plant a new lawn, patch bare areas, or overseed an existing lawn. Grass seed must receive regular irrigation, especially until it begins to germinate. This is more likely to happen naturally in fall rather than in spring, when the new grass must withstand hot summer days.
When purchasing, you may find grass seed embedded in what looks like dryer lint. The premise is that this will hold water when the seed is planted and watered. Though this may seem like a good idea, the best practice for getting grass seed to sprout is by making sure it has good contact with the soil. Loosening the top of soil before planting or raking the seed in will achieve this. Newly planted seed may be mulched with a light layer of straw.
Perennials
Why should spring get all the glory? While you might not think of fall as a time to get outside and plant new perennials, it actually presents a golden opportunity to do just that. Not only is it bargain time for many perennials at the garden store, the growing conditions are perfect for establishing roots. In autumn, the garden’s peak is fresh in your mind, so it’s easy to remember where you need to add some pizzazz. Remember that dead spot you noticed in midsummer? How about the garden bed that needs a splash of yellow or blue? Now is the time to address those areas.
In Zones 6 and 7, the cool-down period starts around the end of September, about six weeks before the first fall frost. This is the ideal time to start your fall planting. In Zones 3 to 5, you’ll want to plant earlier if you can. And of course, Zones 8 to 11 can pretty much plant year-round without a problem. (Lucky!) Still, you want to get an early start to give roots time to get established. Wait until the soil freezes hard, then spread a few inches of mulch around your perennials—not to prevent soil from freezing, but to keep it from thawing. Roots that aren’t solidly anchored can “frost heave” out of the soil when the ground freezes and thaws, putting the plant in danger of getting killed by cold. Once mulch is on, you’re all set. Even if a few of your new perennials don’t make it, you’re probably still coming out ahead. Fall planting gives you a big jump on spring gardening, so you have more time in the busy season. Below are some perennials that do well when planted in the fall.
Why should spring get all the glory? While you might not think of fall as a time to get outside and plant new perennials, it actually presents a golden opportunity to do just that. Not only is it bargain time for many perennials at the garden store, the growing conditions are perfect for establishing roots. In autumn, the garden’s peak is fresh in your mind, so it’s easy to remember where you need to add some pizzazz. Remember that dead spot you noticed in midsummer? How about the garden bed that needs a splash of yellow or blue? Now is the time to address those areas.
In Zones 6 and 7, the cool-down period starts around the end of September, about six weeks before the first fall frost. This is the ideal time to start your fall planting. In Zones 3 to 5, you’ll want to plant earlier if you can. And of course, Zones 8 to 11 can pretty much plant year-round without a problem. (Lucky!) Still, you want to get an early start to give roots time to get established. Wait until the soil freezes hard, then spread a few inches of mulch around your perennials—not to prevent soil from freezing, but to keep it from thawing. Roots that aren’t solidly anchored can “frost heave” out of the soil when the ground freezes and thaws, putting the plant in danger of getting killed by cold. Once mulch is on, you’re all set. Even if a few of your new perennials don’t make it, you’re probably still coming out ahead. Fall planting gives you a big jump on spring gardening, so you have more time in the busy season. Below are some perennials that do well when planted in the fall.
Perennials for Fall Planting
| Aster Astilbe Balloonflower Bearded iris Bee balm Bergenia Bleeding heart Brunnera Campanula Catmint Columbine Daylilies Dianthus Echinacea Fern Goldenrod | Hardy geraniums Hosta Lady’s mantle Lamb’s ear Lilies Monkshood Native asters Oriental poppies Penstemon Peonies Sunflowers Phlox Sea holly Sedums Siberian iris |
The most common plant problem is not an insect or a diseases—it is us. We do a great job of killing plants we obviously intended to grow. Please use these resources to incorporate important cultural practices that impact the survivability of newly installed plants. There are many websites that offer pictures and detailed fall planting instructions. Good resources usually include an arboretum or your state’s cooperative extension. Here are a few websites we like: Purdue, Penn State, Virginia Tech
We hope you take advantage of the cooler temperatures to do some fall planting. The array of plants available extends far beyond chrysanthenums, and very well may be discounted for the end of the season. Happy autumn planting!
In the U.S., mosquito bites are a normal part of summer, leaving behind an itchy bump that’s most often just a nuisance. However, mosquitoes are the most common disease vector. Others include ticks, fleas, sand flies, triatomine bugs and some freshwater snails. Vectors are living organisms that can transmit infectious diseases between humans or from animals to humans. Many of these vectors are blood-sucking insects, which ingest disease-producing microorganisms during a blood meal from an infected host (human or animal) and later inject it into a new host. (World Health Organization)
The Staggering Numbers:
The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention notes a 3.5-fold increase in vector-borne diseases in the U.S. from 2004-2016, with more than 76 percent of cases caused by tick-borne pathogens. Most of those cases are Lyme disease. The state with the highest number of Lyme disease cases in the U.S since 2000 is Pennsylvania.
The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention notes a 3.5-fold increase in vector-borne diseases in the U.S. from 2004-2016, with more than 76 percent of cases caused by tick-borne pathogens. Most of those cases are Lyme disease. The state with the highest number of Lyme disease cases in the U.S since 2000 is Pennsylvania.
Why so many incidents?
The consensus among researchers indicates that the increase in the tick population is due to:
The consensus among researchers indicates that the increase in the tick population is due to:
- Shifts in land use which result in loss and fragmentation of the tick’s natural habitat.
- Changes in human or animal behavior that may bring ticks and hosts into closer proximity.
- Researchers believe the black-legged tick population might have exploded in recent years because timber that was cut down around 1900 is growing back and providing ticks with an expanded habitat, increasing their contact with people.
Is there a single solution?
No. And that’s the tough reality. Landscape modifications can create an environment unattractive to primary tick hosts, such as deer and rodents, which may decrease the abundance of ticks that are present in parts of the yard. Fewer ticks have been found on well-maintained lawns. But ticks will always gravitate to woodlands, stone walls, heavy groundcover and ornamental vegetation. If your home garden contains plants which deer favor, or if your yard contains invasive, understory vegetation, ticks are more likely to be found. Landscape management alone may not reduce disease incidence, as the undetected bite of only one infected tick is required for transmission of B. burgdorferi type Lyme disease. This blog provides ideas on how to incorporate tick management into the landscape.
No. And that’s the tough reality. Landscape modifications can create an environment unattractive to primary tick hosts, such as deer and rodents, which may decrease the abundance of ticks that are present in parts of the yard. Fewer ticks have been found on well-maintained lawns. But ticks will always gravitate to woodlands, stone walls, heavy groundcover and ornamental vegetation. If your home garden contains plants which deer favor, or if your yard contains invasive, understory vegetation, ticks are more likely to be found. Landscape management alone may not reduce disease incidence, as the undetected bite of only one infected tick is required for transmission of B. burgdorferi type Lyme disease. This blog provides ideas on how to incorporate tick management into the landscape.
So what does this mean for the home gardener?
There are landscape design tactics to keep your family, friends and pets safe. Knowing just a little about tick behavior will assist in understanding what solutions will work to minimize your family’s and pet’s exposure.
There are landscape design tactics to keep your family, friends and pets safe. Knowing just a little about tick behavior will assist in understanding what solutions will work to minimize your family’s and pet’s exposure.
Tick Behavior & Risk of Exposure
Most (about 98%) Lyme disease cases are associated with the nymphal blacklegged tick, of which 10-36% may be infected with Lyme disease. Nymphal blacklegged ticks are about the size of a pinhead, difficult to spot, and are active during the late spring and summer months when human outdoor activity is greatest. About 75% of Lyme disease cases are associated with activities (hiking, fishing, horseback riding, farming, play, yard or garden work) around the home. Ticks do not jump, fly or drop from trees, but grasp passing hosts from the leaf litter, tips of grass, etc. Most ticks are probably picked up on the lower legs and then crawl up the body seeking a place to feed. Adult ticks will, however, seek a host (i.e., deer) in the shrub layer several feet above the ground, about or above the height of children.
Most (about 98%) Lyme disease cases are associated with the nymphal blacklegged tick, of which 10-36% may be infected with Lyme disease. Nymphal blacklegged ticks are about the size of a pinhead, difficult to spot, and are active during the late spring and summer months when human outdoor activity is greatest. About 75% of Lyme disease cases are associated with activities (hiking, fishing, horseback riding, farming, play, yard or garden work) around the home. Ticks do not jump, fly or drop from trees, but grasp passing hosts from the leaf litter, tips of grass, etc. Most ticks are probably picked up on the lower legs and then crawl up the body seeking a place to feed. Adult ticks will, however, seek a host (i.e., deer) in the shrub layer several feet above the ground, about or above the height of children.
A Special Note: Tick exposure to children
Until a human vaccine for Lyme disease becomes available, people need to proactively avoid tick bites; regularly check for them after exposure in high-risk zones; and remove ticks properly and expediently. While ticks are unlikely to be encountered in open fields, children chasing balls off the field or cutting through woods to school may be entering a high-risk tick area.
Until a human vaccine for Lyme disease becomes available, people need to proactively avoid tick bites; regularly check for them after exposure in high-risk zones; and remove ticks properly and expediently. While ticks are unlikely to be encountered in open fields, children chasing balls off the field or cutting through woods to school may be entering a high-risk tick area.
Ticks can “hitch a ride” on your family pet. Once a black-legged tick bites your cat or dog, it will become engorged and may eventually drop off your pet. The air in your home is generally too dry for it to survive. But, it is just as likely for ticks to fall off of your pet once indoors, and reattach to either pets or people. A veterinarian can suggest methods to protect your pets from a range of vector borne diseases.
Landscape management
Residential landscapes are designed for a variety of aesthetic or environmental reasons and “tickscape” practices should be integrated where Lyme disease is prevalent. In most cases, alterations will be made to an existing landscape, although landscape architects and designers should also incorporate tick- safe landscaping concepts into major renovations or new construction. Follow these simple landscaping techniques to reduce blacklegged tick population
Residential landscapes are designed for a variety of aesthetic or environmental reasons and “tickscape” practices should be integrated where Lyme disease is prevalent. In most cases, alterations will be made to an existing landscape, although landscape architects and designers should also incorporate tick- safe landscaping concepts into major renovations or new construction. Follow these simple landscaping techniques to reduce blacklegged tick population
Discourage unwelcome animals
- Deer, raccoons, cats and stray dogs bring ticks into the landscape. Prevent them from entering your yard by constructing fences.
- Remove old furniture, mattresses, or trash from the yard that may give ticks and their carriers (rodents) a place to hide.
Eliminate their environment—Keep it bright and sunny:
Woodland edge and leaf litter are high risk areas for nymphal ticks. Altering the landscape to increase sunlight and lower humidity may render an area less hospitable to ticks. Open up your property to direct solar exposure. Management of the habitat should focus on the areas frequently used by the family, not necessarily the entire property. To reduce ticks adjacent to homes:
Woodland edge and leaf litter are high risk areas for nymphal ticks. Altering the landscape to increase sunlight and lower humidity may render an area less hospitable to ticks. Open up your property to direct solar exposure. Management of the habitat should focus on the areas frequently used by the family, not necessarily the entire property. To reduce ticks adjacent to homes:
- Stack wood neatly and in a dry area (discourages rodents).
- Mow the lawn. Mowing and removing cover vegetation around the house also will discourage rodent hosts.
- Remove leaf litter accumulations around the house and lawn perimeter. Leaf litter and other plant debris can be raked or blown out from under shrubs and bushes. Composting or removal by appropriate bagging is an acceptable method of disposing leaf litter. Leaves should not be simply moved to another part of the property. The removal of leaf litter has been shown to reduce the number of young ticks on some properties. Some communities will compost collected leaves and provide the compost to residents for free or a nominal charge.
- Cut grass, weeds, and brush along edges of the lawn, masonry walls, and driveways.
- Prune plants to provide open space between the ground and base of the plant. Individual shade trees, with the exception of fruit trees like crab apple that are attractive to deer, and small ornamental stands in the open lawn will probably not contribute to the tick numbers unless surrounded by ground cover.
Strategically place your ‘garden rooms’ or areas used by family and pets
- Isolate areas used by the family or public (i.e., lawns, play areas, recreational or ball fields) from tick habitat or tick hot spots (i.e., woods, dense vegetation, groundcover, stone walls).
- Keep playground equipment, decks, and patios away from yard edges and trees.
- Use hardscape and xeriscape landscaping (i.e., brick, paving, decking, gravel, container plantings, low water requirement plantings) in areas immediately around the house that are frequently used.
- Place a 3-ft wide barrier of wood chips or gravel between lawns and wooded areas to restrict tick migration into recreational areas.
Selectively choose plants and their placement
- Avoid invasive plant species and plantings that are inappropriate for your location. Several guides and listings of invasive plants and native alternatives are available. Some nurseries are helping to assess invasiveness and introducing alternative cultivars.
- Ticks also may be found in groundcover such as Pachysandra. Restrict the use of groundcovers to less frequently used areas of the yard. Clean up the vegetation around or even seal stone walls near the house.
- Move swing sets and playground areas out or away from the woodland edge!
Use Mulch and Hardscape as a barrier:
The use of hardscapes, mulches, and xeriscape landscaping techniques can help reduce tick habitat and isolate parts of the yard from tick hot spots. Hardscapes refer to non-living features of the landscape like patios, decks, and paths. Mulches are used to suppress weeds and help retain soil moisture, but also can help reduce tick movement. In the laboratory, landscape materials have been shown to deter tick movement and around homes. A three-foot wide or broader woodchip barrier may help reduce tick abundance on the lawn, although results vary widely from home to home and from year to year depending upon other factors (i.e. density of woods, amount of shade, initial tick densities.) Mulches can help reduce the number of ticks on the lawn and delineate the tick zone. Quality of the landscape material may also influence results as wood chips from chipped trees, especially if it contains leaves, quickly degrade and may soon become no different than leaf litter. The application of a barrier or buffer will be easiest where there is a sharp delineation between the woods and lawn. A pesticide application can be focused on the landscape barrier or buffer zone to increase the effectiveness of the barrier. Move swing sets and sandboxes away from the woodland edges and place on a covering of smooth bark, mulch or other suitable material.
The use of hardscapes, mulches, and xeriscape landscaping techniques can help reduce tick habitat and isolate parts of the yard from tick hot spots. Hardscapes refer to non-living features of the landscape like patios, decks, and paths. Mulches are used to suppress weeds and help retain soil moisture, but also can help reduce tick movement. In the laboratory, landscape materials have been shown to deter tick movement and around homes. A three-foot wide or broader woodchip barrier may help reduce tick abundance on the lawn, although results vary widely from home to home and from year to year depending upon other factors (i.e. density of woods, amount of shade, initial tick densities.) Mulches can help reduce the number of ticks on the lawn and delineate the tick zone. Quality of the landscape material may also influence results as wood chips from chipped trees, especially if it contains leaves, quickly degrade and may soon become no different than leaf litter. The application of a barrier or buffer will be easiest where there is a sharp delineation between the woods and lawn. A pesticide application can be focused on the landscape barrier or buffer zone to increase the effectiveness of the barrier. Move swing sets and sandboxes away from the woodland edges and place on a covering of smooth bark, mulch or other suitable material.
Xeriscaping
Xeriscaping is the application of water-conserving landscape practices. This approach reduces habitat cover; helps isolate frequently used areas, can provide an attractive focal area in the yard or garden, and reduce maintenance and water, fertilizer, and chemical use. Many drought-resistant plants are also deer-resistant. Landscapes can incorporate formal or informal designs around play, eating, or pool areas. Landscape materials such as laid brick, wood decking, stone paving, raked gravel or pea gravel (set down slightly from bordering bricks, stone, or paved areas), and concrete (exposed aggregate can provide varying attractive colors and textures and edged with brick or tile) can be used to create a patio and paths. Some plantings can be in raised beds or containers.
Xeriscaping is the application of water-conserving landscape practices. This approach reduces habitat cover; helps isolate frequently used areas, can provide an attractive focal area in the yard or garden, and reduce maintenance and water, fertilizer, and chemical use. Many drought-resistant plants are also deer-resistant. Landscapes can incorporate formal or informal designs around play, eating, or pool areas. Landscape materials such as laid brick, wood decking, stone paving, raked gravel or pea gravel (set down slightly from bordering bricks, stone, or paved areas), and concrete (exposed aggregate can provide varying attractive colors and textures and edged with brick or tile) can be used to create a patio and paths. Some plantings can be in raised beds or containers.
| Possible Landscape Design Options Butterfly gardens in large, open, sunlit areas is an attractive alternative to an open expanse of manicured lawn. Clumps of nectar flowers can be separated from tick habitat by gravel or mulch paths or strips of lawn to reduce its potential for harboring ticks. A much larger separation also would minimize any impact from targeted use of pesticides for tick control.. Some nectar plants are deer- browse resistant. |  |
Colonial style gardens are formal layouts of herbs, vegetables, and flowers surrounded by fieldstone, gravel or lawn walks. The sunny, warmer landscape, separated from woodland habitat, should harbor few ticks.
Native wildflower and grass meadows require no fertilizer, little or no supplemental water (once established), and only annual mowing. A small wildflower meadow is very attractive to butterflies. While data are limited, meadows appear to harbor few blacklegged ticks except along narrow edges with woodlands, dense vegetation and stone walls. Native grasses, which usually grow in small clumps, provide cover for meadow birds and certain butterflies (particularly skippers) and are deer-resistant.
Final Thoughts
Keep Biodiversity. Elimination of woodland and all wildlife habitats is not necessary or environmentally desirable. In cases where environmentally acceptable, consider alternatives to large tract of open lawn or only small lawn areas: butterfly gardens, vegetable gardens, formal herb gardens, colonial style gardens, wildflower meadows and hardscapes. Some evidence suggests a lack of biodiversity and a landscape that specifically favors deer and mice increases tick abundance and transmission of Lyme’s disease. The key factor appears to be the presence and abundance of deer. The objective of a tick management program is to discourage activity of several key tick hosts, and create a barrier between woodland habitat and areas the family uses most frequently.
Keep Biodiversity. Elimination of woodland and all wildlife habitats is not necessary or environmentally desirable. In cases where environmentally acceptable, consider alternatives to large tract of open lawn or only small lawn areas: butterfly gardens, vegetable gardens, formal herb gardens, colonial style gardens, wildflower meadows and hardscapes. Some evidence suggests a lack of biodiversity and a landscape that specifically favors deer and mice increases tick abundance and transmission of Lyme’s disease. The key factor appears to be the presence and abundance of deer. The objective of a tick management program is to discourage activity of several key tick hosts, and create a barrier between woodland habitat and areas the family uses most frequently.
By implementing precautions against exposure to ticks, you can maximize your safety. Remember:
- Be aware of your surroundings.
- Limit time in tick-infested areas.
- Use proper protection like clothing sprays
- Check for their presence after leaving area.
- Have another family member examine parts of your body you cannot see, such as scalp and back.
For more detailed tick information:
Tickscaping: download the PDF from the Connecticut Agricultural Experiment Station.
Lyme disease symptoms visit your doctor and read the information on the CDC website.
In PA contact the PA Tick Research Lab for a free tick test.
Tickscaping: download the PDF from the Connecticut Agricultural Experiment Station.
Lyme disease symptoms visit your doctor and read the information on the CDC website.
In PA contact the PA Tick Research Lab for a free tick test.
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Authors
Gwen Wisniewski: Landscape and Garden Designer. Contact me. Let me help you integrate these garden inspirations. Choose the links below to find out more about my landscape design service or to make an appointment.
Holly Schultz: Blog & magazine writer and editor. Contact me for writing. I look forward to working with you.
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